Katie's Gardening Tips

1. Do not start seeds too early. Seedlings will become too tall and 'leggy' as they search for light. A smaller, more compact plant will perform much better when planted out in the garden.
2. Keep trays covered with a plastic bag or clear cover at night and remove partially or totally during the day. Seeds require high humidity to germinate, but once established covers may create problems with moisture - see # 4.
3. Give as much warmth under the trays as you can. The top of the fridge is perfect. After germination has occurred, transfer the trays to a sunny window sill as they will need lots of light.
4. Do not over water. Really important!! Over watering can cause a stem rot called 'damping off' which will spread and kill seedlings fast. A laundry spray bottle is perfect for watering.
5. Transplant into larger size pots once the seedlings become crowded. Keep as sunny and warm as possible. Before planting out, harden off by putting them outside on warm, still days.

Enjoy and Good Luck!

Spring is the busiest season of the year for most gardeners. Here are some tips for 2 jobs that I get a lot of questions about:

When & how do I cut back perennials?
Cutting back can be done in the fall or spring. Cut down to the new growth which should be emerging from the ground by now. Do not cut back woody perennials such as Lavender, evergreen perennials such as Candytuft and semi evergreen perennials such as Coral Bells. Dead parts can be trimmed off later in May. All ground cover should be left too.

When is the best time to move or divide perennials?
Spring is an ideal time to move or divide the majority of perennials. As a general rule of thumb, if the plant blooms after late June it is good to divide/move in the spring. If it blooms before the end of June, move or divide in the fall.

Enjoy and Good Luck!

Kids Gardening Gardening with kids can be so much fun, especially starting young when the wonders of soil, newly sprouted seeds and bugs can be so enchanting to a child. Here are a few gardening projects that Rosalyn, Daniel and Ben enjoy each summer:

1. Grow some Gourds & Mini Pumpkins: These ornamental veggies are easy to grow, the perfect size for little ones. Our kids enjoy playing with the fruits long after they have harvested them. This year, we are growing both types along with regular Pumpkins and Giant Bottle Gourds.
2. Plant a Runner Bean teepee: Make a teepee out of 6 foot long bamboo canes and plant Scarlet Runner Bean seeds or plants at the base of each pole. By the end of the summer, the kids will have a great hide out, along with a good crop of fresh Beans (harvest young or else you will have to de - string them). Plants available at the farm.
3. Plant a Sunflower circle: Plant some tall, branching Sunflowers in a circle to create another great living hideout. Leave the Sunflowers standing through the winter and the kids can watch the birds feast on the seeds. This year we have grown a tall branching variety called Ring of Fire.

Have fun kids!!
P.S. Don’t forget to leave space for a door in the hideouts!!
Enjoy and Good Luck!

Katie's Big Tip for a Flourishing Veggie Garden Ground Cover Fabric

We are lucky in Southern Ontario to have such a perfect climate for growing heat loving veggies and herbs such as Tomatoes, Peppers, Eggplant, Zucchini, Basil and many more. Try using a mulch or ground cover on your veggie garden this year and you will see benefits both in reduced work hours and increased harvests. Specific benefits include preventing weed growth, preserving moisture and warming the soil.

When we field grew cut flowers, ground cover was our secret tool and it worked amazingly! Now I use it in our veggie garden every year. Ground cover fabric is a woven polypropylene fabric, usually black - if you've ever looked down in our greenhouses this is what we lay on the ground. It is available at hardware stores or larger garden centres - sorry we do not carry it… yet! If you cannot find the correct fabric, use black plastic - not reusable though.

This is what to do:

1. Till your garden and add manure or topsoil if necessary
2. Lay out a sheet of ground cover fabric where you are planting vegetable plants
3. Stake down well with 6" spikes
4. Figure out where you are planting and slice Xs in the material
5. Plant in the holes and water well as initially the plants will be shocked by the heat
6. At the end of the year, cut down dead plants, pull up the fabric and reuse next year.

Try it and see the results for yourself!!
Enjoy and Good Luck!

Deadheading means removing spent or faded flowers regularly. Many gardeners can get a bit fanatical about this but it can be a time consuming task and often is not necessary. Here are my guidelines:

1. If it improves the appearance of the plant, then do it. Plants such as Peony, Daylily and Hosta look instantly better from a deadheading.
2. Some varieties will be encouraged to produce more flower buds and re bloom as a result of deadheading. Daisies, tall Phlox and Salvia usually respond well, where as no amount of deadheading will encourage most spring flowering perennials to re bloom.
3. The seed heads of some perennials can look attractive well into fall and can be left. Rudbeckia, Heliopsis, Ladies Mantle and Astilbe spring to mind. This can help create a range of interesting texture in the garden.

The general rule is there is no rule, remember they are all perennials and will grow back again next year. Just do what you have time for and what you think looks best!!

Fall is here and with it usually comes some fabulous weather for gardening. This time of year is perfect for moving, dividing and reorganising perennials, while the details of our gardens are all still fresh in our minds!

When?
After Thanksgiving, when you have completed a thorough clean up and cut down of your perennials. It is much easier to make sense of the garden then.

Plan and think...
Look your garden over with a critical eye. Try to imagine what plants would look like in a different spot. Think of colour, bloom time and height. Is there a particular season when colour is lacking? Check out some photos that you may have taken through the season.

Go for it!
Get out a sharp spade and wheelbarrow. Try to reorganise your garden into large groups of perennials. Over the years, some plants may have seeded or spread wildly. Take them out! Be ruthless with anything that is not performing. Some perennials die out in the centre and this is a good indication that they are ready to be divided to maintain vigor. Dig out the whole clump, chop it up and replant smaller clumps. Make some spaces for some new plants, and give away extra plants.

Have fun, wait and watch all your hard work blossom in the spring!

Amaryllis come in many beautiful shades of red, pink, white, salmon and orange. Originally from South America, Amaryllis bulbs are fast and easy to grow indoors during the winter. They reward you with huge, long lasting, bold flowers on tall, sturdy stems. They are easy for children to grow and our kids love to grow them for their teachers every winter. If you have an Amaryllis that has finished flowering, it can be made to flower again by following this procedure:

1. Cut down the flower stems, and continue to water and fertilize the leaves for about 5 - 6 months. After all danger of frost has passed in June, plants can be placed outside to continue growing in the sun and fresh air.

2. Bring the plant indoors in September or October, before the first frost. When the leaves begin to yellow, cut them back to about 2" above the bulb.

3. Now you can either remove the bulb from the pot and place in a cool, dark place such as the crisper of your fridge or leave the bulb in the pot and place in your basement - also cool and dark. The bulb now needs at least 6 weeks of rest.

4. After the 6 week rest period the bulb can be started growing again with light and water. Allow 8 weeks for blooms. Have fun!

1. Light Requirements: Will your container be growing in full sun, part sun or full shade? Ensure you only use suitable plants.

2. Plant Habit: When choosing plants, include a 'Thriller', 'Filler' and a 'Spiller'. This combination of an exciting upright plant, a few mounding fillers and a few trailers is a great method to remember.

3. Less is More: Depending on container size, use only 3 or 4 varieties per container, but include a few plants of each. Our 14" and 16" round containers consist only of 3 varieties, but 7 plants.

4. Colours: Consider a colour theme, ie. blue and yellow or my favourite right now - pink and orange - yes it truly does look stunning!! Single colours can look very classy, ie. all white.

5. Foliage: Have you seen some of the stunning foliage varieties of Coleus or Sweet Potato Vine that we grow? Ensure you use at least 1 foliage plant for every 2 or 3 flowering plants.

6. Potting Compost: This can make all the difference to the success of your container. Use fresh potting compost each year and choose a grower quality professional product. For containers in full sun, windy locations or those that will get minimum care, use #7 compost which contains water holding gel to help prevent excessive drying. We sell bales of #1 and #7 here.

7. Fertilizer: Last, but by no means least, please fertilize! We sell 2 types of fertilizer - soluble, that is applied as you water and slow release granular, which can be applied to the surface of the soil and will last the growing season. A combination of the 2 types is ideal.

Both these delicious fruits need a long, hot summer - something we seem to get a lot of nowadays. Why not try growing your own this summer? Here's what to do...

1. Start your own seeds indoors or purchase some of our seedlings here. Anytime now is great to start your seeds.

2. Choose a sunny, sheltered spot. Close to a building can be good for additional heat. Dig a large hole in the garden and put in a good quantity of organic matter. Well rotted cattle manure is excellent. Alternatively, try planting directly into your compost heap.

3. Plant your seedlings. Be extra careful not to damage the stem. All Squash and Melons are very sensitive to damaged roots and stems. (Our plants are all grown in biodegradable pots, therefore minimising transplant shock.)

4. If you can locate some reflective material, place it around the plants. This will help create additional light and heat.

5. Be sure to keep your plants well watered and enjoy watching them grow.

Good luck & have fun!

Many of you have commented about our new entrance gardens. They certainly had a stunning show of bulbs. The weather has been cool this Spring so the flowers have lasted really well.

Spring bulbs are easy to grow. Just remember to follow a few simple steps and they will look good for years to come.
 
1. Deadhead as soon as the flowers are finished. Cut the flowering stem as low as possible.
 
2. Leave the foliage to die down naturally. It is tempting to cut off the dying leaves, but it is very important to leave the foliage so the bulb can grow and replenish itself.
 
3. When the foliage can be gently pulled off instead of cut, then it can be cleaned up.
 
My favourite bulbs? Allium, Muscari (Grape Hyacinth), Daffodils and species Tulips. All are planted in the fall.
 
Happy Deadheading!